In the early days of motoring, cars were relatively simple and repair shops were few and far between. Most drivers were young men of an adventurous frame of mind and few bought an automobile without expecting to work on it. "Get Out and Get Under" was a popular song of the day and wags claimed that the letters in the name FORD meant "fix or repair daily."

But, as cars developed from curiosities into necessities and the vehicle population swelled from the thousands into the millions, cars became increasingly reliable and the pool of drivers grew to include men and women of all ages who looked upon them solely for their transportation potential. Fewer and fewer motorists bought cars with the intention of doing repair work themselves.

In recent years, however, escalating repair and vehicle ownership costs have made many car owners think again about the economic benefits of doing some of the simpler maintenance tasks themselves. To be sure, the daunting engineering complexity of even the least expensive "econo-box" cars of our era renders the thought of major repair work unrealistic for all but the most dedicated. Even many professsional mechanics have trouble adjusting (as most car owners have at one time or another discovered to their dismay and/or outrage). There are, however, numerous repair and maintenance tasks that can be performed even by novices. The savings can mount into the hundreds of dollars per year over what similar repairs would cost at the local repair garage.

Learning to do simple repair tasks can also produce meaningful benefits in time saved. Many car owners belong to an auto club such as AAA, and it is comforting to know that if you have a flat tire or a dead battery help is--at least theoretically--only a phone call away. But, what if you have a flat on a trip out in the middle of nowhere, 30 or 40 miles from the nearest repair shop? And, what if you find your battery dead on morning of the coldest day of winter when auto club phone lines are jammed with hundreds of calls from motorists in the same predicament? Assuming you don't have roadside assistance, it is a time like this that knowing how to change a tire or jump a battery could spell the difference between getting on your way or being stranded.

There is another reason for learning to do simple repair chores. Most car owners are totally intimidated by their cars. Fear is the key word here. They are constantly afraid something will go wrong and the reason they are afraid is because they know they will be helpless to fix it and will be left to the none-too-tender mercies of those who do. Thus, knowing how to do basic repair and maintenance tasks gives you a sense of control. You are no longer completely at the mercy of your car or of the mechanic. Knowledge is power. The more you know about your car the more you own it and the less it owns you.

Common maintenance and repair tasks can be accomplished by any normal driver with a little dilligence and an average amount of common sense. You don't have to possess an engineering degree or have the courage of a lion tamer in order to change a tire. All that is required is a determination to save time and money and a willingness to learn how to do it.

Prepare before you repair.
This guide cannot devote the space needed to explain every maintenance procedure that you can do yourself. The best we can do is recommend them and briefly describe them in general terms. If you are handy, or willing to learn, there are many good maintenance manuals available. They range from the large and professional-mechanic-oriented factory shop manual (invaluable for the owner of a collectible classic) to the all-in-one type manuals (they cover every car for a given year). These latter manuals are also geared to the professional mechanics and are not very useful for the novice. We recommend that you check your book or auto parts store for a service manual written for your specific car, such as one of the Chilton or Clymer series books. They describe in relatively simple language the basic maintenance functions, as well as more sophisticated repairs.

Changing a Tire
Probably the most common repair chore is changing a tire. Everyone has a flat sooner or later and everyone insists that flats always seem to happen at the most inconvenient times. But, when exactly is a flat tire convenient? The truth is a flat is always a pain and the only way to make it less painful is to prepare for it in advance so that you know how to deal with it when it happens.

Pay attention to your spare.
Your spare tire is that other tire lying unused and unappreciated in your trunk, probably half buried under the pile of junk that you have been meaning to clean out for months. While a flat tire is always a problem, having a flat tire and no usable spare in the trunk can escalate an inconvenience into a crisis. If you bought your car used, you might check the trunk to see if you even have a spare. A shocking number of people don't. Then, every few months you should check your spare to make sure it is properly inflated and holding air.

If you have one of the "space saver," gas-inflatible spare tires, you might consider replacing it with a real tire. It might not fit very well in the space provided, but it is worth that minor inconvenience. Most space saver tires are only good for 200-300 miles--tops--and that can lead to serious inconvenience if you are caught with a flat on a trip. A space saver tire does just that--it saves space in the trunk so that the manufacturer can claim greater trunk room. It is a selling tool for the manufacturer that is of very little genuine utility for the consumer. Since everyone has a flat sooner or later and since a space saver spare is not meant to be a permanent replacement tire, it makes sense to dump it now and buy--when you can do so at your convenience--a real tire that you can actually use when an emergency arises.

Read the owner's manual.
The next thing to do is to get out your the owner's manual that came with you car and read the section on changing a tire. If you do not have an owner's manual, contact a local dealer for your make of car today and find out how you can order one. Replacement manuals, even for very old vehicles, are generally available through the manufacturer.

Understand your car's jacking system.
Every car comes equipped with a jack. Years ago, automobile jack design was pretty much standardized, but this is no longer true. It is important for you to familiarize yourself with the location and operation of your car's jack. Every car has certain points along the underbody where the jack is designed to fit. These vary from make to make and from model to model and are cleary defined in your owner's manual. The time to locate these points is on a warm Saturday afternoon when you have a few minutes to spare, not late some wintry night when you forgot your boots and are staggering around your car ankle deep in slush.

Helpful tips on doing the work.
When you have to actually change a tire, there are a couple of things you need to do first. One is to remove the spare from the trunk before you jack up the car. It is more convenient this way, especially if you are jacking up the rear of the car. Also, you need to make sure the spare is inflated before jacking up the car and removing the flat.

You must make sure the transmission lever on your car is firmly placed in the "Park" position (if you have an automatic) or in gear (if you have a manual shift) and that the parking brake is smartly engaged. You don't want the car moving while you work on it. If you have a wood block or a brick handy, it is a good idea to place it behind the tire diagonally opposite the one you are intending to change.

Carefully remove the wheelcover, if the wheel to be changed has one. Many cars today, especially the sporty ones, use stylized wheels without wheelcovers, but if your car has a wheelcover it should be treated with respect. Replacement wheelcovers are grotesquely expensive from most manufacturers. Use a screwdriver or the flat end of your car's tire iron to carefully loosen the cover.

The wheel itself will be held in place by four-to-six large bolts, called lug nuts, that screw onto the wheel's lug studs. One end of your car's tire iron will have a socket for loosening these lug nuts. Loosen them before jacking up the car because they should be pretty tight and, if you wait until the car is off the ground, the wheel may turn while you try to work on them, immeasurably complicating matters.

Next, position the jack as indicated in your car's owner's manual and begin jacking. Raise the car until the tire is a couple of inches off the ground. It is unnecessary to do more than this and the higher you raise the car the more precarious it is going to be. This is one case where less is more.

With the tire off the ground, loosen the lug nuts the rest of the way and pull the wheel off the car. Now, simply set the old wheel aside and reverse the process.

Place the spare on the wheel, place the lug nuts on the lug studs and finger tighen them. Then, carefully lower the car.

When the tire is on terra firma once again, use the tire iron to tighten the lug nuts the rest of the way. How do you know when the lug nuts are tight enough? A good rule of thumb is to tighten them until they seem to be tight--and then another half-turn beyond. If you have any doubt about the lug nuts being sufficiently tight, pull into a service station and ask them to check. It should only take a moment for them to do this and it will add to your peace of mind.

Finally, when replacing the wheelcover, do not use the tire iron or a hammer to pound it into place! Remember what we said about the absurd cost of replacement wheelcovers. Position the cover making sure the valve stem is poking through the hole in the cover, and pound it into place with the palm of your hand. If you have a rubber mallet handy, use that. If you can't get the wheelcover back on--and it is an even bet that you won't be able to--just toss it in the trunk and let a service station attendant do it for you. He's got the tools and the experience, and driving without the wheelcover will do nothing more serious than detract slightly from your car's appearance.

WARNING: NEVER CRAWL UNDER A CAR WHEN IT IS JACKED UP! DON'T DECEIVE YOURSELF THAT PLACING A CINDER BLOCK OR TWO UNDER THE CAR WILL HOLD IT IF THE JACK LETS GO. IF YOU WANT TO CRAWL UNDER YOUR CAR, CONSULT A REPAIR SHOP OR AUTO PARTS STORE.

Checking Under The Hood
The oil crisis led to self-service gasoline. This removed one of the best ways of making sure your car was checked regularly: the famous "pump jockey," who raised the hood and checked everything each time you gassed up. Sadly, too many drivers know too little about what's under the hood and are in too much of a hurry to perform the routine checks that can ensure long engine life.

Most of today's owner's manuals show how to do the essential underhood checks. Many manufacturers have even gone to the trouble of color-coding all the things that should be checked there. As a reminder to those who have read their manual, and as instruction to those who don't have one, here's a summary of things to check.

Checking engine oil .
The oil dipstick is a long rod with a loop at the top that sticks down into the engine. It is usually toward the front of the engine (as opposed to the transmission dipstick, which is toward the back). Grasp the loop and pull up firmly, pulling the stick clear of the tube and surrounding components. Wipe the bottom end clean of oil with a rag or paper towel.

Toward the bottom of the stick, you should see two marks or lines. They will even be identified to indicate the maximum and minimum oil level you should have in the engine. Insert the dipstick into the tube, making sure it seats all the way down. Pull the dipstick out again and look for the oil level. It should be between the two marks. If it is, the oil level is all right; if it's below the bottom mark, you need to add oil. The range between the marks is usually one quart, to make it easy when adding, but be careful when adding to not overfill.

Today, most name-brand oils come in handy, resealable plastic quart bottles, so the old filler spout is no longer needed. If you know what brand of oil is currently in your engine, it is probably smart to add the same brand. Some brands have additives that may not work their best when mixed with the additives of another brand. If, on the other hand, you don't know the brand, it likely will not hurt the engine to mix oils for the short time to your next oil change.

Be sure to stick with a name brand. Some, though not all, discount or off-brands could actually be reprocessed oil--recycled oil that has been treated and some new additives added. It is just not worth jeopardizing your automotive investment by trying to save a buck on oil.

Find the oil filler cap. It's usually about three inches across and mounted on top of a valve cover or a filler tube. Remove the cap, then slowly tip the bottle of oil guiding the mouth over the filler hole. For the unpracticed, it might be a good idea to use a funnel; otherwise you are likely to spill oil on the outside of the engine. This will cause smoke, and accumulate dirt and grit, as well. Add half-a-quart, then check your oil level again. If the dipstick indicates you should add the rest, go ahead. If you are still below the "add" level after adding the first quart, repeat the steps with another quart until you are at or near the top mark on the dipstick.

Changing engine oil.
One of the best things you can do to keep your car running better longer is to change the oil frequently and regularly. Getting it done at the dealer, or even at your neighborhood garage, can be expensive over time. Fortunately, changing oil is one of the easiest do-it-yourself tasks. For the inexperienced, however, it can be confusing and, if you make a mistake, it can be costly. Many cars have more than one drain plug underneath. Draining the wrong one can leave you with a transmission out of fluid and an oil sump with twice the oil that should be there. If you drive your car like that, the result will be a clogged engine and a burned transmission within a matter of miles.

To change the oil and filter, you'll need a wrench (preferably box-end) or a ratchet and socket of the correct size for the drain plug, and a filter wrench to fit the oil filter on your engine. One size does not fit all filters, so be sure to use the right one. If your car's drain plug uses a gasket, you'll need to get a replacement for that, too--probably from the dealer. You'll also need a container of some sort to catch the oil as it drains. Make sure the container you select will hold at least one quart more than the capacity of your engine (the last thing you want is for oil to spill over the rim of your container as you're trying to move it). You should also have a few rags handy for wiping things up. And, of course, you should have a filter and enough new oil to replace what you remove. (In today's environmentally conscious atmosphere, just dumping the oil anywhere is unacceptable. It is strongly urged that you recycle used oil.)

The engine should be warm to allow the oil to drain freely. This should take about five minutes at idle. You'll need to raise the car to get under it; you can use a jack as long as you support the car with jack stands but the better way is to invest in a set of ramps. They're reasonably priced, more convenient and they support the car much more solidly. Contact an auto parts store for advice on this subject.

WARNING: NEVER GET UNDER A CAR THAT IS NOT SOLIDLY SUPPORTED. AN AUTO JACK AND A COUPLE OF CINDER BLOCKS ALONE ARE NOT ENOUGH TO ENSURE YOUR SAFETY.

Once under the car, locate the oil drain plug. Make sure it is the oil drain plug and not the transmission or transaxle drain plug. The oil drain plug will be on the oil pan, which is directly under the engine. If you are not certain you have the correct plug, stop. Don't do anything else until you have someone who knows confirm which is the proper one.

Once you have found the proper drain plug, slide your container under it. Most drain plugs are angled slightly. Picture a line coming from the center of the plug and try to place the far edge of the container near there; when the oil comes out, it will stream with just a slight arc. Placing the container in this fashion will assure the best chance of not having the oil squirt on the driveway.

Fit your wrench on the head of the plug and turn it 1/4 turn counter clockwise: just enough to loosen it to where you can turn it by hand. Set the wrench out of your way. Slowly turn the plug counter clockwise, pushing in on it while you turn and keeping your hand and arm above and to the side (if you keep it below, the odds are that the oil will flow down your hand and arm, leaving you an oily mess and in a foul mood).

After a few turns, test whether the bolt is completely free by just barely pulling it away. If it doesn't come free, continue testing after every turn. Remember to keep a grip on the plug; if you don't, it could plop into the pan and force you to fish for it in the dirty oil--not a neat proposition. When you feel the plug come loose, quickly pull the plug away and upward, clear of the streaming oil. Check to be sure the oil is flowing into the pan, moving it more directly under the flow as it slackens. Let the oil continue to drain while you take a rag and wipe off the drain plug. Some drain plugs are fitted with gaskets of metal or plastic. Remove the old one and fit a new one to the plug and set it close by.

After the oil has stopped draining from the drain plug opening, locate your oil filter. The engineers seem to try to find the hardest place to reach and then mount the filter there, but you can get to it. Slip the wrench around the case so that it tightens when you turn it counterclockwise. Work the wrench only until the filter is loosened enough to turn by hand, then remove the wrench and set it aside. Place the oil recovery pan in the area under the filter. Put a rag over your hand and reach up to grab the filter. DO NOT LIE DIRECTLY UNDER THE FILTER. Try to situate yourself to the side, because some oil is going to seep down once the seal on the filter is loose. Turn the filter counter-clockwise, unscrewing it from the engine. Keep your hand around the filter, just gently releasing it and sliding it as you unscrew it. If you let it loose, it could drop when the threads finally free, spilling oil on you and everything under the car. When the filter does come free, gently lower it, keeping the opening as upright as possible. Once it's clear of all the stuff in the engine compartment, grip it tightly and tip it over while over the drain pan, but don't drop it in there. When as much oil as possible has drained out, wrap the filter in the rag and set it aside.

Remove the new filter from the box. Open one of the bottles of oil and insert your finger to get a little oil on it. Rub the oil on the rubber seal on the new filter, making sure it's well-coated all the way around. Now, slowly pour some new oil into the large center hole of the filter. Continue to add oil slowly as it sinks down until the oil is about an inch from the top and doesn't sink any more. This will provide oil pressure very quickly after you start the engine, avoiding oil starvation of the engine bearings for the first several seconds.

Reach up with a clean rag and wipe the area around the filter mount on the engine clean of old oil and residue; you want to be sure to have a clean contact surface for the filter. Feed the filter up to the threaded connecter and gently wind the filter clockwise onto the shaft. Be careful not to cross-thread the filter. The filter should spin on very easily. If you feel any resistance, back off and try again. Spin the filter on until it "snugs" against the engine, then hand tighten it 1/2 to 3/4 turn more, according to the directions on the box.

Now, go back and install the cleaned drain plug after wiping that area of the oil pan clean with a rag. Again, the bolt should be turnable by hand unless it's cross threaded. Once snug to the oil pan, use the wrench that you loosened the bolt with to tighten it firmly. Do not overtighten, or you might strip the threads. That would cause the bolt to work loose, causing the oil to leak out and really ruin your day if your engine seizes up.

Move all of your working stuff out from under and lower the car. Don't start the engine yet. If the car is on ramps, get behind the steering wheel with your foot over the brake pedal. Put the car in neutral, release the parking brake and gently push the car back with the foot that is on the ground. The car will start to roll down off the ramps. Use your brake to control the speed and stop the car as soon as the wheels are on the ground. Set the parking brake and open the hood again.

Your owner's manual should tell you how many quarts your engine holds. Add all except one quart to the engine. Replace the oil filler cap, then check the oil level with the dipstick. If no oil shows, you probably put the oil into the wrong filler hole. If too much oil shows, you probably didn't drain the right pan. In these cases, do not start the engine; call for a professional to come and check out the car.

If the oil dipstick shows oil, then start the engine. The oil pressure light should go out (or your oil gauge should show pressure) within 10 seconds. If it doesn't, shut off the engine immediately. Look under the car to see if there's a big puddle of nice clean oil. If so, you may have forgotten a step. Check the filter and drain plug to make sure they are in place.

Most likely though, everything will have worked out fine. With the engine running, look under the car to see if any oil is leaking from the drain plug or the filter. If it is, you will need to get back under and tighten them. If everything is OK underneath, shut down the engine and wait about a minute, then check the oil level again. Top up the oil as needed. Congratulations, you've just done an oil and filter change. All you have to do is clean up and you are done.

The hardest part of cleaning up is getting rid of the old oil. Because of the toxic nature of oil, it can't just be dumped down a sewer on onto the dirt. It must be repackaged and turned over to a toxic waste disposal unit. The easiest way is to pour the waste oil into the resealable bottles the new oil came in, then take it to the nearest landfill. They generally have special disposal areas for things such as oil, batteries and tires.

Checking transmission fluid.
Your automatic transmission relies on hydraulic fluid to transfer the engine's power to the drive wheels, so it's important that you check the fluid often. In this case, "often" means at least once a month.

The fluid should be checked after the car has been driven a few miles, to allow the transmission to warm up. In most cases (but check the owner's manual for your particular car), the fluid should be checked while the engine is running and the transmission is in "Park."

Locate the transmission dipstick. It should be toward the back of the engine compartment, near the firewall, but positions vary. Pull the dipstick out and look for the fluid on the stick. It should be reddish in color. Take the time to examine the fluid. If it is brownish, that's evidence of burning and a clue that something is not right with the transmission. Sniff the fluid; if it smells burned, that's another tipoff of something wrong. You should have the transmission checked soon by your favorite mechanic.

If the fluid looks and smells OK, wipe the dipstick with a clean rag or paper towel, then insert the dipstick into the tube, making sure it seats all the way down. Pull it out again and look for the highest point where the fluid shows on the stick. It should be between the low and high marks. If it is below the low mark, you will need to add fluid.

To add fluid, you will need the appropriate automatic transmission fluid (ATF) for your car. They are not all alike, so be sure to check your owners manual or ask an expert at your dealer or auto parts store. You will also need a long, narrow neck funnel (most auto stores carry funnels designed specifically for adding ATF) and some sort of opener for the can, unless you buy the type that comes in a resealable bottle.

Remove the dipstick and fit the funnel into the top of the transmission dipstick tube. Gently pour some ATF into the funnel, letting it flow all the way into the transmission. Don't add more than 1/4 quart at first. Check the level with the dipstick again. Continue this procedure, adding a little at a time, until the ATF shows at the full mark. Replace the dipstick.

WARNING: Typical transmission fluids are extremely harmful to automotive exterior finishes. They are often nearly as effective as paint remover, so be very careful not to drip fluid on your car's exterior.

Checking power steering.
If your car has power steering, you should check it once a month. Procedures vary from one car to another, but usually power steering fluid should be checked after the car has been driven, when the fluid has had a chance to warm-up.

Power steering pump reservoirs usually have a screw cap on the top with a built-in dipstick on the underside. Because they are generally black and the fluid is reddish, it is hard to see the level, but if you look carefully you will find the fluid on the stick and can compare it to the level marked.

If you do need to add fluid, check to see whether you need special power steering fluid. Many power steering units use Dexron type automatic transmission fluid. If your owner's manual doesn't say, check with an expert at your dealer or auto parts store. Add fluid in very small amounts; generally power steering pumps don't need a lot of fluid to replenish the reservoir. If yours does need a lot, odds are that you have a leak and need to have the unit checked by a mechanic.

WARNING: Typical power steering fluids are extremely harmful to automotive exterior finishes. They are often nearly as effective as paint remover, so be very careful not to drip fluid on your car's exterior.

Checking brake fluid.
When checking brake fluid, you must be extremely careful to keep the area clean. Any contaminant could work its way through the brake system and damage one of the components critical to helping you stop safely. Be sure to wipe the area around the master cylinder thoroughly before removing the cover.

Brake fluids are different. Some makes even use mineral oil instead of normal brake fluids. Make sure the fluid you use is intended for the brake system in your car. If you are not sure, check with your dealer or an expert at your auto parts store.

Some cars, particularly imports, have translucent reservoirs that enable you to see the fluid level at a glance. On these cars, it's a simple matter to compare the fluid in the cylinder to the reference marks on the outside of the reservoir. If you need to add fluid, simply unscrew the cap and add fluid until it reaches the "Full" mark.

Many cars have metal master cylinders with tops held on by spring clips. To check the fluid, you need to pry the spring to one side using a long screwdriver as a lever. When thew spring is clear, slowly and carefully lift the top. You should see two chambers: front and back. Both should be completely full. If not, add enough fluid to top them up, then gently put the top back in place and work the spring back into the notch designed to hold it.

WARNING: What we said about the paint removing qualities of automatic transmission and power steering fluids applies equally to power brake fluid. Keep it away from your car's exterior finish!

Checking windshield washer fluid.
Nothing can be as frustrating as having mud or road grime splash on your windshield while you are on the road and not able to wash it off. A dirty windshield is dangerous, as well, because int can impair your vision. Topping up your washer reservoir every month can save you that aggravation.

Washer fluid can be bought premixed by the gallon at virtually any hardware, drug or grocery store. Adding washer solvent is just as easy as removing the cap to the washer reservoir, pouring the premixed solvent in, and replacing the cap.

WARNING: WHEN YOU LOOK UNDER THE HOOD OF YOUR CAR, YOU ARE LIKELY TO SEE TWO LARGE PLASTIC RESERVOIRS: ONE FOR WASHER FLUID, THE OTHER FOR COOLANT. DO NOT CONFUSE THESE!

Antifreeze does a lousy job of cleaning your windshield and can severely damage your car's paint. The washer reservoir will usually have a big warning molded right into the plastic near the mouth saying something to the effect of, "Don't put anti-freeze in here, dummy." Still, there are horror stories about near accidents when a green slick hit someone's windshield after they added coolant instead of washer solvent to the washer reservoir.

Checking the coolant.
That other plastic bottle under the hood (on most newer cars) is the coolant recovery bottle. It holds the expanded coolant that used to overflow onto the street and into the environment when the radiator heated up. Today's cooling systems are much better for the ecology and make it easier to check the level of your antifreeze. You should be able to see the greenish-gold coolant mixture through the bottle, which will have minimum and maximum fluid levels marked on the outside. If you need to add coolant, make sure that it is a 50 percent mix with water. Never add pure coolant to your system.

If your vehicle doesn't have a recovery reservoir, you'll need to check your coolant by removing the radiator cap. Be sure to do this while the engine is cold; hot coolant will be under pressure and can scald you if you try to remove the cap while the system is at normal operating temperature of around 200 degrees.

When you remove the cap, look down into the radiator. You should see coolant about an inch below the top. If it is below that, add a 50-50 mix of coolant to bring it up to that level. Replace the radiator cap. If you need to repeatedly replenish coolant, have the cooling system checked for leaks by an expert.

Checking the battery.
Battery design has improved in the past 20 years. Virtually all of the batteries in cars today are low-maintenance--but that doesn't mean no maintenance. If your battery doesn't say "maintenance-free" on it, you should check it once a month. Old batteries had individual screw caps for each cell that had to be screwed off and on one at a time to check the level. Today's batteries have pry-off tops that cover three cells each, making it much less tedious.

Look down into each cell. The acid should come just to the bottom of the split ring. If it is below that level, add distilled water to bring the level up to, but not above, the bottom of the ring. For years, there's been a controversy about whether it's all right to use ordinary tap water. Our advice is: don't. Tap water contains many chemicals and minerals, some of which might adversely react with the chemicals in the battery and shorten the usable life. Better to be safe than have to buy a new battery sooner than necessary.

WARNING: Batteries create flammable fumes. Do not work near the battery while smoking or while using any flame-producing devices.

Other easy things to check under the hood.
While you're under the hood, it's a good idea to check the belts and hoses as well. Look for evidence of fraying or glazing on the belts--clues that they are close to failing. Examine the hoses for swelling or brittleness and, if you find it, get them replaced soon. Also, check the smaller vacuum hoses for dryness and loose connections. Even a small vacuum leak can cause rough running and poor performance, or could foul up the emission controls.

Checking the tires.
The last thing to check is your tire pressure. Today's radial tires are deceptive; they don't show underinflation at a glance like the older, bias-ply tires did. It pays to check the pressure every month.

Use a good quality tire pressure gauge. Cheap pencil-type gauges can be off by as much as 5-10 pounds. A good quality dial gauge can be bought for under $10 and will pay for itself by extending the life of your tires.

Follow the recommendations on the tire label affixed to the driver's door pillar or the glovebox lid as to proper inflation. Be sure to check the tires when they are warmed after having been driven several miles. Heat from driving will expand the air in the tires and increase the pressure. Check each reading twice to make sure that nothing affected the first reading, such as a poor seat on the valve stem. After you've checked the tires on the car, remember to check the spare. Today's temporary spares are high-pressure designs. Be sure to read and follow the recommended pressure marked on the side of the spare when checking and inflating it.

Summary.
These maintenance checks, performed regularly, can insure long, faithful service from your car. In fact, once you develop the talent, you may find you actually prefer to do as much work on your own car as you can. There's a certain pride and sense of accomplishment derived from knowing you have done the work yourself.