After all of the stationary inspections, it's time for the acid test: the road test. This should not be done quickly. Take all the time necessary to check everything carefully. Don't let anything or anyone pressure you to rush your evaluation. Remember, it's your money. You have every right to make sure you are putting it into the right car.

Before starting out, go through your pre-drive checklist: seat adjusted to fit, mirrors lined-up, switch locations checked, safety belts on. OK, now you're ready to go.

First, check the brakes.
Get up to about five mph in the lot and go for the brakes; they should take right away, with no chatter or pull to either side. This will give you a feel for how the brakes will react. You want to know this before you need to use them on the street. Hold your foot on the brake pedal for about a minute to observe whether the pedal stays up or gradually sinks. Sinking is a sign of a leak somewhere in the system. This should be checked right away. It would be better to put off road testing the car until the brakes have been corrected. Why risk an accident?

Take the car on the road.
While the car is still relatively cold, turn the radio off and listen for growls, grinds, chirps and any other strange sounds coming from the drive train, brakes, body--wherever. If possible, it would be a good idea to have a friend along to help you locate where the noises are coming from. Keep updating your list for your expert.

If you have a friend shopping with you, have him or her follow you while you're driving to see if the car "crabs." That's what it is called when the car seems to go down the road slightly sideways. This could be evidence of severe body or frame damage that wasn't properly repaired. If the car crabs, it's best to walk away from the deal. The car will likely have many other problems resulting from an accident that did that much damage.

When you find a stretch of road with no traffic, test the car's tracking by lifting your hands off the wheel about an inch and observing the directional stability. The car should roll straight down the road, with perhaps just a bit of drift to the right if the road has a pronounced crown. Put your hands back on the wheel and check the steering play by gently rocking the steering wheel very slowly and slightly. The car should track with the wheel input without any wander or shimmy. With the car pointing straight down the road, brake the car reasonably hard. There should be no swerving or pull to either side. A pull means the brakes are not engaging evenly. Your expert needs to determine why.

When traffic is clear behind you, just come to a stop on the roadway. From a standstill, accelerate the car moderately, holding the transmission in each gear. Listen for any engine knocking or pinging and any unusual noises from the transmission or drive gears. If you detect anything out of the ordinary, make a note as to where it came from, the speed you were going and what kind of maneuver you were executing (accelerating, coasting, braking, etc.).

Find a stretch of road that is rough and bumpy. Cobblestone roads are really great. The car should respond to the bumps, but not bounce repeatedly. A "floating" or prolonged rocking after you've passed the bumps indicates worn shock absorbers. Rough road will also bring out all of the body rattles and squeaks. You've got to expect some with a used car, but be leary of any really loud creaks or groans, or a large number of them. They could indicate the body has been weakened due to a major accident. You'll want to have your mechanic double check for evidence of heavy bodywork. Also, add to your checklist any abnormally low or high readings from any of the gauges.

After thoroughly road testing the drivetrain, again check all of the accessories, including the air conditioning and heater. Sometimes rough roads or even routine bumps can cause an intermittent problem to reveal itself. These are the hardest to fix, because they invariably work when the mechanic tries to find the problem.

Summary.
Now that you have completed all of the examinations and tests, it's time to decide whether you're still interested in the car. If you are, then you must face the toughest part of buying: settling on a price. Remember, however, not to agree to anything (especially signing any paper) until you have had your mechanic check over everything, especially the items you noted on your checklist.